In dedication to my lifetime mentor in all the creative arts
- my mother – I am posting an excerpt from her book, “California High”, which I
believe captures the true essence of motorcycle adventure.
After hearing my brother tell hilarious stories about riding
to California and planting his wild roots in what would soon be his most
beloved city, my mother decided to interview him and put it all down in a
book. It turned into not only a
very intriguing snippet of late 70’s, early 80’s San Francisco culture, but
also a wonderful depiction of my brother’s unique character, even at this young
and hopeful age. The story of such
tenacity and courage in the face of ongoing hardship justifies the successful and
happy man he is today.
Someone famous and long dead said, “Adventure is merely
inconvenience rightly considered.”
And from my brother Tony, alive and well: “Stories happen to those who can tell
them.”
The year was 1983.
By then Tony had been in San Francisco three or four years. It was my first visit to that city, and
I decided to look him up. We sat
at a small kitchen table drinking coffee, and I asked him to tell me a little
about his trip out here….
….. and he told this story:
1979.
“Well, I had $200 dollars. I had twenty extra dollars from
somewhere. It was before dawn, a very crisp and very cold September morning,
and I remember it was just so fresh outside – such a fresh, new
beginning. It’s like the whole trip, things, just every day things, meant so
much; they were so symbolic. Like when I finally got to San Francisco and
smashed into the rear end of a car and broke my motorcycle fairing to bits, it
was like smashing through to the finish, because now, without a fairing, there
is no return – you can’t go back without a fairing. I was there to stay, and I didn’t have any money to buy
another fairing, and Michigan was a long way away, and I was there, and
there was no going back.
‘But when I left, it was a very fresh morning, and Beca
said, “Goodbye, I love you. Have a good adventure.” And David, her husband said, “Shut the door!” I hopped on the bike and ‘this is it’,
you know, the Big Countdown. Made sure everything was tied down right. Well, of course, first thing that
happens is everything starts falling off the bike.’
He went out and came back with a raggedy box full of
snapshots.
‘I think I’ve got a picture in here somewhere. Here it
is. You see here where the rope
goes under the edge of the fender?
Just before I got to Chicago, all of a sudden I felt everything go
‘Whoop!’ I stopped and pulled over
and kicked everything out of the middle of the road as quickly as I could, and
as I was trying to put everything back on the bike, I noticed my tennis shoes
were gone somewhere along 94-West, and I also noticed my legs were full of
pickers, and do you know, I slept with those Chicago pickers all the way to
California? The first trial and
tribulation!
‘I tied everything to the saxophone. It became a science. I could get it all on in fifteen
minutes. I threw that net over my saxaphone, the net that’s on the bathroom
ceiling now. I got that net in the
attic of the Elk’s Club. Alright,
then what I did was I had a great big green garbage bag crammed full of
clothes, and everything else I could cram in there, and I put one green garbage
bag in one side of the net, in the other side of the net, another green garbage
bag, and I put the net on top, which neatly tied everything down. So it was like two pouches on each side
of the horn. Then went the blanket
I got for Christmas and the sleeping bag, looks like some other type of
suitcase there in the photo, and my hammer. My hammer got me across the country, because I used my
hammer for everything. People
always asked me what the hammer was, and I always told everybody, “I got the
wife and kids back there!” It was
my favorite joke, and it got everybody laughing.
‘You notice here’s my first mistake right here; see that
green bag with no net over that green part? That’s where my shoes are hangin’ out. Very first thing that left were my
shoes. Those were my dress
shoes, and I wound up looking for work in marine boots!
‘Well, that first day I rode from before the sun came up
‘til well after the sun went down; I just drove and drove and drove, and I
wanted to get so far, so fast, out of Michigan. I really started hating Michigan, because California was out
there.’
He took a sip of coffee and Doctor Gonzo meowed loudly at
the door. The boys downstairs were
grilling pork chops under our window and the afternoon sun had reached halfway
down into the patio, lighting the ivy as it moved.
“What made you decide to come to California, Tony?”
“Let’s see if I can remember the name --- it was CR Disco,
Plainwell, and his name was Carl, and San Francisco seemed like the city for
me. He said it’s fast, fun, never
a dull moment, fast people moving, quick wits, everybody stayed up all night;
it was a musician’s haven and a place for bartenders and there was nothing but
bars and places and people and women!
That had a lot to do with it.
I wanted to go where the women were. California girls!
They don’t make a song about Florida girls!”
He grinned, took another sip of coffee and dropped into a
reverie, thinking about California girls.
“Well, Carl really had me cookin’ on San Francisco. It was modern, it was jet set, it was
jazz. It was all those
things. And Kalamazoo, they roll
up the sidewalks at night, and you couldn’t get anybody to dance with you, and
I was rambunctious; ‘young and dumb and fulla c---.’ That’s the saying.
Actually, Gypsie told me that one.
This big, fat woman that was the sexiest fat girl I’ve ever seen. This girl was so fat, she was just
huge! But she was sexy at the same
time. And she knew how to handle
her fat!
‘Well, the first sunrise was spectacular. The sun was a big, round ball coming
up. What really struck me was “94-West.” I really liked that word “West.” And the way I figured it, if I kept going
west long enough, I’d eventually get there. That’s the way I figured it. All I had to do was keep going west. For months before I left home the idea
was so tantalizing --- just getting on the bike and heading west. So easy to do.
‘I went around Chicago, that was a big thing, and down
through Illinois, where the sun started getting hot, so I took off my helmet. I
really wanted to feel that freedom.
The farther away I got, the feeling of no return. There was no return now. I jumped into it, and now I had to
swim. In my mind I had everything
planned all the way to San Francisco; after that, it was just black. I had no idea what would happen once I
got there. I just shut that out of
my mind --- refused to think that time was going to keep going after I got
there. Everything went straight to
San Francisco, then stopped.
‘I went from Kalamazoo to St. Louis and then some the first
day. Some guy had told me the
underpasses were a good place to sleep, so I kinda kept my eyes peeled. They were dusty, filthy, and close to
traffic. I thought, “This guy is nuts!
I’m not sleeping under there!” Somewhere in the Missouri hills I bought a cheap camp ground
for four dollars and just pitched my little make-shift tarp for the first
night. I was really shaky about
it; I slept on some plastic and I had the tarp over me. Woke up with a huge spider on the
inside of the tent and bites across my forehead, but it was such a crisp,
beautiful morning! And when I got
up, I raised my head as a young man.
This was the first time in my life that a decision was totally my
own. I was totally alone, I didn’t
know a soul, and I was moving west, and everybody that I ran into was moving
west also.
‘I was flyin’ along, watching the changes in the terrain,
certain things growing here, different things growing there, hills and rocks,
and I kept thinkin’, “now I know I’m not in Michigan!”
He finished his coffee, picked up Doctor Gonzo and padded
down the hall, down the back stairs, and deposited the cat in the patio.
“Damn pest,” he said.
“I got a cat because I thought I had a ghost. People said they felt strange in here --- cold chills and
things. I had the place
exorcized. But the cat didn’t seem
uncomfortable, and he’s still here.
He’s company, though.
Sometimes, it gets a little lonely here.”
‘Well, the second day, I ate the granola bar Phyllis gave
me. Phyllis told me not to eat it
until I had to eat it, and the very second day, I ate it! Most of the money went into the tank; I
would ride it until it went on reserve --- wouldn’t get off until it went on
reserve. I’ll tell you, I soon
started to realize how huge this country really is.
‘In Oklahoma I ran into Tom. Tom was on his way to Arizona. We just started riding together. He was on a Yamaha 1100, and I was on a Suzuki 550, and he
said, “Why don’t we split a room?”
and I said, “I’m not gay,” and he said, “Neither am I!” and I said, “Great!” and we split a
room that night. He was a good ol’
kinda guy; a drummer, so we talked music, and we got to be buddies. Went across Oklahoma and the top of
Texas, and Texas was Big Sky.
Around Amarillo, we ran into another guy who was a preacher. He’d put all his money into the sport
of biking, and he was “Mr. Prepared”.
He was hauling a trailer behind his motorcycle, and he was a ‘Howdy-Doody’
guy with a beard, and both of us were standing there smoking a joint. Here he comes with the helmet with the
visor on it, and he’s got the gloves and his full-dressed Yamaha and every
gadget imaginable for a motorcycle, and he’s waving to us “Hi guys! Wait up for me!”. He gets off, and the very first thing
that happens is his bike falls over.
Smash! And when a
bike like that falls over it takes like a million guys just to pick the damn
thing back up. Oil’s leakin’ all
over! Turned out the preacher had
left preaching and was heading from Texas to Oregon, and he was out trying to
find out what it was all about.
‘So now it was a trio riding together, three origins, and
three destinations; I’m going to California, Tom to Arizona, and the preacher
to Oregon, all on Highway 40, and we were all in Santa Rosa, New Mexico, when
we ran into Cato. Cato rode a
Harley and he didn’t like our bikes because ‘you couldn’t hear ‘em’. Tom and Cato traded bikes for a while
and Cato got off and said, “I couldn’t hear it, Man!” Cato knew the local cops, the cops knew him, and he was a
‘low rider’ on the Harley, and he showed us around the city.
‘That night it started to rain. The preacher had everything, he was all prepared, and he set
up his tent which came out of the trailer. All the rest of us, ya know, “Shit! Rain! I didn’t plan on rain!” I crawled into the tent, then Tom crawled into the tent,
then Cato got into the tent, and the tent was built for two. And then all of a sudden here comes
this young couple --- never did know who they were! The guy looked like he was from a rich
family and he was kind of good looking, and she was kinda pretty, and she had
long hair, and neither of them were prepared. They didn’t have anything with them, and they were going
somewhere, and all of a sudden it was raining on them and it was night and they
didn’t know what the hell they were doing out there, and they kinda climbed
into the tent, too.
‘Well, turns out the preacher had never even seen a
marijuana joint. I mean, this guy
was totally sheltered! He had
grown up in some sort of a church, and we’re smoking joints, and he’s thinking,
‘this is marijuana!’ and I
handed him a joint and he says, ‘No! No!
No thanks!’ His tent is
just full of people now, and it’s raining and eventually a bottle of wine gets
passed around and we’re laughing and giggling, and we know that tomorrow
none of us are gonna ever see each other again. We were all together in one tent on a magic rainy night, and
it was fantastic. We partied all
night, and the rain beat on the tent all night, and I was a young, green kid,
and we all really got to know each other in that one night.
‘Next morning all my stuff was soaked. I had a can of Dinty Moore Beef Stew
and some other stuff I put in the preacher’s trailer, and I was going to ride
with him to a certain stop where he was going to give me my stuff back, and Tom
was going to exit down into Arizona.
I don’t know what happened on that expressway, but all of a sudden I was
on the exit with Tom, and there went my can of Dinty Moore Beef Stew off in the
other direction with the preacher.
He’s frantically waving, “What are you doing? What are you doing?” and I’m waving back, “I don’t know! I
don’t know! Goodbye!” And Tom was “What are you doing with me?” and “I don’t know! I don’t know!” Then I got off at the next exit and
‘goodbye’ to Tom. I stopped in
Albuquerque and sat in a Laundromat drying my clothes.
‘Next day I went from Albuquerque to Needles, California,
battling the rain in New Mexico.
It was just total rain, clouds pouring rain way over there, then clouds
over there, then I got hit. In
Needles I had to stop because the wind was like a blast furnace, and I was the
hottest I’ve ever been in my life.
I couldn’t believe how hot it was.
My lips were chapped and my skin was burned. When I pulled into Needles, the very first thing I wanted to
do was jump into the river. I said
to somebody, “Where can I get to the water?” and he said, “The water’s right over there, but you’re not gonna
be able to swim in it.” I said,
“Why?”
“It’s too cold.”
And I said, “Can’t be that cold!” He was right. I couldn’t get past my knees. So I cooled my feet off and got back on the bike.
‘Needles was where I ran into this guy who was ‘real Hippy,
Man! Hey, guy!’ and he kinda led me to some friends of
his who were Mexican guys, and I stayed in their house and watched ‘Chips’ on
T.V., and they made chili bets; you know, who can eat the whole chili? I took one little bite out of this
jalapeno, and it was like the hottest thing I’d eaten in a long time; and the
guy tried to eat the jalapeno and only could get past one bite, and all of a
sudden he wasn’t so bad anymore!
It came time to camp out, those guys were going to bed, but I stayed
there as long as I could because it was air conditioned. Even in the middle of the night, it was
still horribly hot. After I left,
I pulled up to a curb, bumped into it, and my Arthur Fulmer helmet, which sat
on the gas tank, (Here’s my Arthur Fulmer helmet in the picture), fell off onto
a lawn. I left it there while I went to look for a place to sleep, and forgot
to go back for it. The next
morning, of course, my helmet was gone.
Forever. And that’s where
my helmet went. Never saw it again. Needles, California. My Arthur Fulmer helmet. Hundred and twenty dollar helmet.
‘So then, the last stretch was the Mojave Desert on Highway
5, and I was cruisin’ along there, and all of a sudden that’s where the
darkness started coming over me. I
was reaching my destination and my money was running out and I had no idea what
I was gonna do, ya know? I got to
Oakland, and things started to get pretty depressing. Everybody around me was going to San Francisco and they all
knew where they were going. There
was an empty pit in my stomach.
The sun was going down, and I was all weather beaten, and I was on my
last tank of gas, and I remember coming across the Bay Bridge and shouting,
“I’m on the Golden Gate Bridge!”
And there was San Francisco.
It was a cloudy day, the traffic was heavy, but I thought I’d take a
victory loop because I finally made San Francisco, and it was really
there.
I could see the St. Francis and was staring at the glass
elevators on the side of the building, and when I looked down this guy was
pulling out in front of me. The
first thing he did after I ploughed into him was hop out of the car and yell,
“Man, it’s your fault, Man!
You didn’t watch where you was goin’! It’s your f----fault, Man! Whun’tcha watch where you’re goin’, Man!” I smashed everything, my pack was all
lopsided and I was on gas fumes anyway, and everything was kinda flopped
over. I thought, ‘Oh God! Lost the turn signal! Lost the fairing! Well, that’s gone. Well, O.K., keep going!’ and began frantically kickin’ the
pieces of glass over to the curb.
A crowd of course gathered, and I shouted, “Just, ah, nothing
happened! It’s O.K… Go away! Just get away from me!” My fairing was in a million bits, and some
old guy came up to me and said, “Oh you really shoulda got his license number,”
while I tried to tie things back down as best I could. Then other people came up and somebody
said, “Ya know, you should put that sleeping bag in the front on the wheel,”
and everybody’s tryin’ to give me advice, and I thought wildly, ‘everybody shut
up! Get away from me! I just drove across the country….!’ My first five minutes in San Francisco,
and my bike’s sprawled all over the street!
‘What happened then was I kept getting on the wrong
bridge. All of a sudden,
whoops! I’m on the bridge
again! Heading for the wrong side
of the Bay. I had in my pocket,
carefully guarded, the phone number of the father of a friend of my sister’s,
and he lived some place called Menlo Park, which I had been told was in San
Francisco. That was all I had goin’
for me. Well, I didn’t know where
the hell Menlo Park was --- went back and forth three more times across the
bridge and even then, ended up on the wrong side of the Bay. And each time I had to pay fare, and
when you only got ten dollars left and have gone on reserve, that was another
nice little feature. I finally
went to the Greyhound Bus Station to find out where the hell I was. I was disgusted, worn to a frazzle, and
disoriented. I had to find a place
to sleep, and I was right in the middle of the city. It was panic. I
thought, ‘This is the black part that I imagined. Well, here it is.
What do I do now?’ Funny,
now everybody knows where Menlo Park is, but at that time, nobody ever heard of
it!
‘So I went to a shopping center, trying to find Menlo Park.
I kept calling that phone number, but no answer, so I sat on a curb, my head in
my hands, next to my crumpled bike.
All of a sudden a car pulls up and a woman calls out, “Are you all
right?” I said, “Yeah, I’m
fine. Thanks.” She drove on, then backed up, got out
and, very embarrassed, handed me a five dollar bill. She said, “Here, maybe you can use this.” I couldn’t believe it.
I finally found out the way to get to Menlo Park, which was
to go down and cross over the San Mateo Bridge, which meant another fare! The San Mateo Bridge is the longest
bridge in the world, or in California anyway, and by then it was starting to rain
and really get cold. The bridge is
low, and you cold almost feel the waves, and with the heavy cross winds it was
really miserable. But I finally
got across the bridge and on the Camino Real. I went south, and south and south, and finally got to Menlo
Park. By then it was midnight and I’d been traveling since before dawn. So I stopped in this coffee shop, all
ready to fall apart, and had some coffee.
I felt so grubby, and wind burned and tired. Finally ended up at a 7-11, and there found a couple of kids
hanging out in front and asked them if they knew where I could sleep. It was really embarrassing. “Oh yeah! You can sleep in the park. We got this old bum Charlie sleeps in the park. He never gets bothered. And there’s showers right across the
volleyball field.”
I had already rode past Lander’s place (he was the owner of
the phone number), one of those plush condominiums with a grand piano in the
window --- I’m sure I was going to ring the doorbell at midnight! Didn’t even know the guy! So I went to Charlie’s park at the end
of the road, and as I drove up into the park the very first thing happens was
the cops came all over me.
Searchlights all over. But
they took a liking to me, and I told them what my situation was, I just drove
in from Michigan. I told them I
was at the end of my road and really didn’t know what to do. “Well,” one of them said, “there’s a
space over there by the swing set.
It’s kind of soft over there.”
And then he suggested the bushes.
It was harder ground, but more concealed. However, it was a couple of feet from the railroad track,
and, he said, the only problem was, at six in the morning the train goes
by. I wanted to camp on the grass,
it was so nice and soft, so I asked him what about the lawn? He said no, because the sprinklers go
on at night.
‘So those sprinklers would go on in a circuit around the
whole park – go on here – go on there. The cop said the best deal was the
bushes. After they left, I was so
tired, and my stuff was falling apart, and I was so desperate I was ready to
throw my sleeping bag on the street, crawl out there and hope nobody would run
over me! But I checked it out over
by the bushes. The ground was all
rocky and the railroad track was right there!
‘So I waited for the sprinklers to stop in one area and
pitched my sleeping bag on the nice, soft grass. It was so comfortable,
and I was wearing my “Micro 3” bikini-type orange silk underwear because I was
in California now. I’d just
dozed off when – damn if those sprinklers didn’t go off around the park a
couple of times! When I sat up I
was already soaking, and “Here they come again!” it was like, how much can a person take? First thing I think of is, I had to get
my bike out of there. All my stuff
is spread out all over everywhere, and it’s getting big, thick, fat, cold drops
of rain. So I hop out of my
sleeping bag, and I’m in my orange silk bikini underwear, and I grab the
bike. So I wait for the rain! Then it’s over, then I got this much
time to get everything out of there before the rain comes around again. So the first thing I did was slip on
the wet grass, and it had just been mowed, so there was grass sticking all over
me, and --- I dropped the bike!
Very first thing the bike falls over! Then I had to pick the bike back up, and I’m trying to push
it ---. It’s the only time in my
life I can remember laughing and crying at the same time. I was so frustrated, because you know,
how much can a guy take? If I
would have seen that on film --- this skinny white kid with the rib cage,
right? He’s out there with all the
grass sticking all over everything, in the little bikini underwear, tryin’ to
move the bike out of the sprinklers.
And the sprinklers are just doin’ what they do every night with their
big arms. So I dragged the bike
through the sandy volleyball court --- it was the shortest way out of the
sprinklers --- and then on the other side of that was the play ground, which
was wood chips! And I had
bare feet! And the bike wouldn’t
stand up on the wood chips. I made
several wild trips back and forth across the volleyball court, in between the
rain, retrieving a few things at a time, and every time I ploughed across the
court the wet things got covered with sand. And every time the sprinklers went around, the stuff I’d left
behind got drenched one more time.
Even my saxophone. They got
that! But by then I was getting my
wits about me and more organized.
I’d been across the volleyball court a dozen times, had fallen a few
times. The whole thing was such a
buffoonery! And it all started out
with my helmet getting stolen.
That was still the same day.
It seemed like forever and ever ago. I’d been across the Mojave Desert, and here I was trapped in
the sprinklers in the middle of the night. I was so disgusted and tired, I just threw the sleeping bag
under the slide. I slept under the
slide after all, just like the cop said.
‘Some time during that wild night, I vaguely recall a
girl. She was fat, and fat girls,
I thought, are generally more friendly.
She was just a girl in the park, and it was like talking to a human
being --- a human being that didn’t have my problems. I talked to her about San Francisco, and all the while I
imagined her saying, “Why don’t you come and stay on my floor?”
I woke up the next morning, and the first thing I saw were
these joggers. You know, this is
Menlo Park. They drive
Mercedes. They’ve gotten out of
the city now and they live out in the suburbs, and they’re very rich. And you know, the ladies have the
little balls on the back of their shoes.
I’d see the joggers looking at me every morning. They’d see a motorcycle, they’d see all
this stuff strewn everywhere, and they’d see some guy wrapped up in a sleeping
bag.
When I woke up that first morning, I was still pretty high
on California. It was amazing,
even though I was sitting there with absolutely nothing going for me. I was still so awed by --- sitting
there in California. This is
California! There’s a real
thing called the California High.
You’ve heard of the California High? It’s just by being in California you feel high. Because I was sitting in the park
feeling GOOD! I was in
California! …………………………………..
By Jean McCormack Perez-Banuet
By Jean McCormack Perez-Banuet